Since adjusting in single seconds of angle is impractical, we need a middle ground.
Extending the imaginary lines out from 1/60th of a degree now means that the lines still diverge, but at a slower rate. This much smaller Minute of Angle (MOA) equates to 1.047 inches at 100 yards. One sixtieth (1/60) of a degree is a minute of angle. So rather than use a degree for our sights, we divide it into 60 segments. Those two lines would continue diverging until they were over 50 feet apart at 1000 yards. That five-foot distance between one degree and the next degree at 100 yards is impossibly coarse for a marksman’s iron sight zero. Technically they would be 62.82 inches, or 5.235 feet, but five feet works well enough for our example. By the time you both walk 100 yards, you’ll be about five feet apart. You follow a line extending from the 270 degree mark and your friend follows a line extending from the 271 degree mark. Imagine you and a friend starting at the same point. But you have to think in terms of distance. On a compass, the distance between hash mark and the next is pretty small. The compass has 360 hash marks around the bezel, each one corresponding to a single degree of angle. Think of a compass, the kind you use for land navigation
It’s the easiest measurement system to relate to. I totally understand why they do it this way. Most of the time, they do this based on linear measurement. Most novices take their rifle to the range and fiddle with the iron sight adjustments until they end up at something resembling a zero. So what is a minute of angle, and why does it matter? Many optics work in 1/4 Minute of Angle, “Quarter MOA.” The detachable A4 sight moves 1/2 Minute of Angle, “Half MOA,” for every click. The classic A2 sight, for example, moves the point of impact 1 Minute of Angle (MOA) for every click. Each model moves the point of impact a different amount for each “click” of adjustment you move the sight. It’s important to talk about angular measurements because not all iron sights are constructed the same. If you want, you could skip my explanation and jump right to my zeroing procedure.īut a little extra information never hurt anyone, right? Before I get to the how-to, let’s lay out a foundation for angular measurements. Most articles on this topic only go so far as giving you the procedure, but they lack an explanation of why you’re doing the steps you’re doing. The same thought process works for a simple set of lightweight fixed sights, folders, or adjustable carry handle sights. This article is about finding and setting a solid zero for your iron sights, regardless of their type. What I am saying is that irons can still work well while you save towards a well-made optic. Good optics provide a huge benefit over iron sights with regards to speed and capability. Don’t get me wrong here, I’m not saying that irons are “just as good as” a quality optic.
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